Saturday 27 August 2016

Greece - Delphi


12-13th June 2015, Delphi, Greece.


Chris now seated on the ‘correct’ side of our rental car did a great job driving us out of Athens.
We were beginning our short trip around the mainland, first stop Delphi, 178km northwest of Athens (2:30 hr).
There was a certain relief that came with knowing the car already had dings and scratches, a few more wouldn’t be unexpected, probably not even noticed.
With the novelty of a lightly packed car we enjoyed the views as we made our journey through the rather non-prosperous arid rocky landscape.

Situated on the main street in Delphi, running along the cliff edge, was the ‘Pan Hotel’.
Surprisingly there were carparks outside the front door making for an easy unpack into our two basic rooms for the night.
Our small balconies had wide views over the Corinthian Gulf, a great spot for a drink and to later watch the sunset.
We waited a little for the heat to drop down before our visit of the adjoining Ancient Delphi, it was registering 30-37C.


Pan Hotel, Delphi.












Parked at the bottom of the holy archaeological site we could look upon the well-preserved ruins of Delphi, nestled amongst the rocks and pine trees upon the holy mountain of Parnassus.
We started the upwards ascent, Chris eventually complaining that he ‘felt like a mule’, carrying Lachlan on his shoulders.



Delphi is best known, as “the supreme oracle site of the ancient Mediterranean world”.
The earliest legends claim that Delphi was the sacred place of the earth goddess Gaia. It was guarded by her daughter, the serpent Python.
According to later Greek Myths (510-323BC), the site of Delphi was believed to be the centre of the earth.
Zeus attempting to locate the centre of the earth sent two eagles flying at equal speed from the two ends of the world.
From where their paths crossed, Zeus threw a stone from the sky. It fell at Delphi.
An even later legend claims that Apollo, the son of Zeus came from his home atop Mt. Olympus to Mt. Parnassus to slay Python.
Finally claiming the site Apollo erected his own oracular temple where he had slain Python.
An omphalos stone (meaning 'centre of the earth' to the ancient Greeks) was set in the ground, it later became the centre of the inner sanctum of the shrine of the Oracle of Delphi (the most important Oracle in the classical Greek world).

Temple of Apollo.
Theatre.




We climbed to the stadium at the top of the site, far above the temples and theatre below. It was one of the four precursor stadiums to the Olympic Games.
Here grand athletic spectacles took place during the first millennium BC. It could seat 6500 spectators.
Following behind us, loudly talking, huffing and puffing, were an American school group.
The boys were amused listening in. I now had some ammunition to recommend to Ollie that he curb the annoying American accent habit he had developed.



Stadium


Walking back down we could appreciate more the stunning setting and tranquility, there was certainly an atmosphere of peace, beauty and sacred meaning.

At the foot of the archaeological site we took a quick look at the Delphi Archaeological museum. It housed an impressive collection.

Back at the Delphi Township I took a stroll down the small main street.
I returned in time for our dinner reservation with the addition of an ‘eye’ pinned on my top. It was a shopkeeper’s gift, “for good luck”, he said.



  
We sat on the restaurant’s terrace and enjoyed both a fabulous meal and view.
We started with smoked eggplant salad, Aegean Lahanodolmades (Greek cabbage stuffed ( with fish) in lemon sauce,
feta wrapped in filo fried with balsamic pomegranate and honey sauce and carrot soup which surprisingly the kids raved about.
Then lamb, salad with Cretan cheese, rocket, spinach, chicken, honey and orange dressing. Pasta (not needed). Dessert was a strawberry soup with ice-cream and baklava.

The following morning, we were back on the road. This time a three-and-a-half-hour drive to Olympia. There were multiple offers of navigational help from lovely locals watching us pack up our car.

We left on a positive note.

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